Long-Arm Quilting: [rate] cents a square inch. Width X Length X [rate]= price
Example 60 X 90 X .0175 = $94.50
DENSE PATTERNS MAY INCUR A HIGHER FEE
.015 /sq inch Freehand; Medium/Large meander edge to edge
.020/sq inch Computer design-edge to edge (high density
designs slightly higher)
.022/sq inch Computer design by the block (high density designs slightly higher)
.030/sq inch Computer design by the block w/ separate sashing or borders (high density designs slightly higher)
Backing & Batting need to be 4 to 6 inches larger all the way around.
I have excellent batting available for purchase: Hobbs Warm and Natural 80/20 96" $9.00 per yard = .25" measurement + 8" (if 4" on each side). You may supply your own batting if you wish. Very thick batting that requires adjusting our machine will incur an additional cost. We can accommodate most fluffy, high loft battings without adjustment.
We charge by the linear inch for batting. For example, if your quilt is 60 inches by 70 inches you would be charged you for 64 inches. The extra 4 inches is the amount we need to extend past the edges of your quilt for clamping. If you purchase batting we add sales tax.
Minimum Thread charge:
$3.75 per quilt (includes same color of thread for both front and back of quilt.)
2nd color charge $3.75
Additional color changes $1.00 per color
Specialty threads such as glow-thread or metallic are $6.00 - $9.00 per quilt.
Variegated Threads $5.00 ea.
Machine embroidery 4x4= beginning at $10.00 5x7=beginning at $12.00
What's Included in the Estimate: The estimate above includes quilting your supplied top and back, and batting if included. We don't normally trim your quilt unless you specifically request it. We will return all significant pieces of trimmed fabric.
What could make my actual cost different than this estimate?
We charge by the time it takes to do your quilt. We know from experience that the time is directly related to the size of your quilt, but every quilt is different and the time will vary somewhat for quilts of the same size.
Some quilts deserve more complex designs. This will increase the price modestly. You might request additional services like piecing of your back. We might have to iron your back fabric because it has excessive wrinkles. Double wide and batik fabrics are susceptible to this problem.
The Stitch Works
Custom embroidery & Long-Arm Quilting
SEE PICTURES AT THE BOTTOM OF THIS PAGE.
Important Preparation Information:
1 - Don’t hold up your quilt top from the corners. It causes the fabric to stretch and that may cause some waviness and fullness in that area when we go to quilt it.
2 - Trim loose threads. Threads that aren't clipped on the top of your quilt top can get quilted into the piece, and threads on the backside can be seen through lighter fabrics.
3 - Fold your quilt top pretty side out until it has been quilted. This protects your seams from unraveling.
4 - Use a 1/2” seam allowance when piecing your backing. If you use a bigger seam allowance for those, your backing will be sturdier and it’s easier to press it down flat and it’s less likely to twist or lay wonky. It’s best for seams to go across the quilt rather than lengthwise. (See #10)
5 – Don’t be too particular with your pieced quilt backing. We can’t see the back of your quilt once it’s on the frame. We only have 4” in each direction to move things around, but we actually need that for our machine head. So, if you have a pieced backing and you want it to line up a certain way, understand that it may not be perfect.
6 – Give us 4-6”on each side and ends. Backings (and battings) that are too small cause problems. If the bottom of my machine head is already too close to a clamp and I bump it, it will definitely mess up the quilting design, and may even break a needle. If I am not be able to clamp it, that makes it more difficult to ensure there won’t be puckers or creases in your batting. It is helpful if your batting is the same size as your backing.
7 - Press your seams on your quilt top and backing really well.
Seams that haven’t been pressed can result in noticeable bumps in your quilt because they will twist and fold during the quilting process. Make sure your seams are pressed in the direction you desire to assure a proper quilting job.
8 – Don't use cheap batting. If it's cheap there is probably a reason why.
9 – Tell us what you want if you have something specific in mind.
10 – Leave the selvages on the top and bottom of your backing.
Leaving the selvages on the top and bottom edges of the backing provides a perfectly straight edge for pinning it to the machine canvas, and will be trimmed away later since it is in the extra 4”+ that you (hopefully) provided for your quilter.